II.

Physical Geography

Newfoundland and Labrador is the seventh largest province of Canada, with an area of 405,212 sq km (156,453 sq mi), including 31,340 sq km (12,100 sq mi) of inland water. The island of Newfoundland alone encompasses 108,860 sq km (42,031 sq mi), and Labrador adds 296,860 sq km (114,618 sq mi).

Roughly triangular in shape, the island of Newfoundland measures 560 km (350 mi) north-south and 510 km (320 mi) east-west. Labrador’s farthest extent north-south is 1,000 km (620 mi) and east-west, 830 km (520 mi). The province has many peat bogs and jagged rock outcroppings, and the soils are generally infertile. The coastlines of both Newfoundland and Labrador are irregular and deeply indented, with many bays, coves, peninsulas, and islands.

A.

Natural Regions

The province contains two natural regions: the Appalachian Region and the Canadian Shield. All of the island of Newfoundland and a small part of southeastern Labrador belong to the Appalachian Region, a formation that extends from Newfoundland to the southeastern United States. In Newfoundland the Appalachian Region consists mainly of a large plateau. This natural region can be subdivided into three smaller regions: the Newfoundland Highlands, the Atlantic Upland, and the Central Lowland.

The Newfoundland Highlands make up most of the western part of the island. This region is the edge of the plateau, which rises abruptly on the western shore and slopes gently to the east. Elevations in this area reach a height of 814 m (2,671 ft) in the Lewis Hills in the southwest. This region is also sometimes called the Long Range Mountains.

The Atlantic Upland forms most of the south and east of the island. This region is mostly a flat or rolling plateau with an average elevation of about 300 m (about 1,000 ft). There are some rugged hilly sections in the southeast on the Avalon Peninsula. Bogs, ponds, and small lakes are numerous in this region.

The Central Lowland occupies the north central part of the island. Most of this region is flat or gently rolling, with almost all elevations less than 150 m (500 ft).

The Canadian Shield, which occupies nearly half of Canada’s total area, covers all of Labrador apart from its southeastern corner. The region is mostly a vast plateau made up of ancient, hard rock. However, some areas of Labrador contain softer sedimentary rock, including a region in the west called the Labrador Trough, which holds some of North America’s richest iron ore deposits. Elevations range from 450 to 600 m (1,500 to 2,000 ft) in the interior, but the edge of the plateau along the coast is more rugged, with slightly higher elevations. The Torngat Mountains in extreme northern Labrador rise to a height of 1,652 m (5,420 ft) at the summit of Mount Caubvick, the highest point in the province.

B.

Rivers and Lakes

Both Labrador and Newfoundland have many rivers and lakes. The Churchill River in Labrador is the province’s longest river. It rises in the west and flows eastward for 335 km (208 mi) before emptying into Lake Melville, a saltwater lake linked to the Atlantic Ocean. On this river is Churchill Falls, with a vertical drop of 75 m (245 ft). It is one of the single greatest sources of hydroelectric power in North America. Other large rivers in Labrador are the Naskaupi, the Eagle, and the Romaine.

On Newfoundland the Exploits River is the island’s longest waterway. It begins in southwestern Newfoundland and flows for 240 km (150 mi) to empty into the Bay of Exploits in the north. The second-longest river on the island is the Gander River, which flows in a northeasterly direction.

The largest natural lake in the province is Lake Melville in eastern Labrador. It has an area of 3,069 sq km (1,185 sq mi). Lake Melville is really a 140-km (87-mi) extension of the Hamilton Inlets and is connected with the ocean by a narrow inlet. Smallwood Reservoir in western Labrador was created by the dams of the Churchill River and is the largest body of freshwater in the province, with an area of 6,527 sq km (2,520 sq mi). Grand Lake, Red Indian Lake, and Gander Lake are the largest lakes on the island of Newfoundland.

C.

Climate

Most of the province has a subarctic climate with short, cool summers and long, cold winters. The cold Labrador Current sweeps the shores of Newfoundland, and the general circulation of the air brings cold winds from the continent during most of the year. The interior of the island has a bleak climate, and the light forest cover on the plateau allows frequent cold winds to gust across it. The coastal regions of Labrador are quite cold, especially in the north, and are too harsh for the cultivation of crops. In winter the bays and coves freeze over, bringing to a halt most coastal navigation. Summer breaks suddenly in Labrador in about the middle of June, when the interior regions become considerably warmer than the coast.

Average July temperatures are 13°C to 16°C (55°F to 60°F) in Newfoundland and 10°C to 13°C (50°F to 55°F) in Labrador. Average January temperatures range from -4°C (25°F) in southern Newfoundland to about -18°C (0°F) in most of Labrador. The maximum summer temperature throughout most of the province is about 32°C (90°F). Winter temperatures may fall to -51°C (-60°F) in western Labrador and -34°C (-30°F) on the island.

Precipitation averages about 1,120 mm (about 44 in) yearly in Newfoundland. In Labrador precipitation varies from about 1,020 mm (about 40 in) in the southeast to about 510 mm (about 20 in) in the extreme north. Heavy winter snowfalls are common, especially in Newfoundland.

D.

Plant Life

About one-third of Newfoundland is forested, and most of the rest of the island is made up of barren areas of reindeer moss and lichens. The forests consist almost entirely of conifers. The most important species are white and black spruce, balsam fir, birch, red pine, and aspen. Smaller plants include the insect-eating pitcher plant, sheep laurel, and snakehead, a marsh orchid. Blueberries and partridgeberries thrive in the barren regions.

Labrador’s vegetation is similar to that of Newfoundland, with large areas of barren ground. Because of poor soil and the harsh climate, the trees are often small for their species. Black spruce and balsam fir is the dominant tree cover in most forested areas.

E.

Animal Life

Newfoundland has fewer varieties of animals than the mainland. Among the animals native to the island are the black bear, woodland caribou, otter, muskrat, fox, and lynx. Moose, which were introduced to the island early in the 20th century, are fairly numerous. Most of the animals found in Newfoundland are also found in Labrador. In addition, Labrador has such animals as the polar bear, mink, wolverine, wolf, and Barren Ground caribou. Birds found all year round in the province are the spruce partridge, ptarmigan, and osprey. Numerous varieties of ducks and geese inhabit the province in summer, and many coastal areas support huge colonies of seabirds, especially gulls, gannets, murres, and puffins. An important breeding area for the harp seal is located off the province’s northern coast. There are no snakes or other reptiles in Newfoundland and Labrador.

F.

Conservation

With a small population and a slowly developing industrial base, Newfoundland and Labrador has relatively few environmental problems. The main ones are solid waste (trash) management and water pollution by community sewage. Most communities lack sewer systems and sanitary landfills for household trash. The federal government enforces federal regulations dealing with certain kinds of air and water pollution. The provincial department of environment administers provincial public lands, including 64 parks and various ecological reserves. To protect seabirds, six sanctuaries have been established in island and coastal areas. In addition, the department is responsible for provincial antipollution efforts, which include the assessment and approval of new development projects, the licensing of water-well drillers and commercial pesticide sellers and users, and the promotion of voluntary recycling of glass and metal containers.